Next Stop: The Texas Panhandle

Today saw our return to good old Pflugerville, Texas for the final repairs to the rig which will allow us to continue our journey in safety. Two new tires, a new ball joint and a sorely needed alignment now have the rig driving more smoothly, the steering wheel firm and steady in the hand. Although these repairs set us back quite a few hundred dollars (no surprise there), we're grateful that our "wheel estate" is more solid than ever, and this gives us a certain feeling of security for the road ahead.

Since we had three hours to spend while the repairs were being done, we hopped on our bikes, took our lives in our hands, and biked along the I-35 service road to the nearest movie theater to take in the newest Jeff Bridges film, "Crazy Heart". The film, with music by T. Bone Burnett, was satisfying on many levels. Lovely cinematography of New Mexico and Arizona certainly whet our appetites for the next chapters of our journey, and a few tears were indeed shed by us both over this tale of redemption.

Pflugerville, movies and rig repairs aside, we are now plotting a course north into the Texas panhandle, where we will make a stop to visit the town of Canyon---one of Mary's childhood hometowns. We will then turn west with the goal of reaching Taos, New Mexico on Saturday in anticipation of a joyous reunion with our beloved son Rene and his wonderful wife Bevin. We have not seen them since they left for Taos in August following their wedding, and this is the longest we have ever been apart from our son in his 26 years of life. Although Taos is rather cold in February, we will winterize the rig, make lots of soup and tea, and warm ourselves with the company of two of our favorite people on this earth.

New Mexico is home to a number of intentional communities of great interest to us, and with friends in Taos, Las Vegas (New Mexico), Albequerque and Santa Fe, we are sure to be even further warmed by the familiarity and comfort of old friends.

Texas has been kind to us, and although the Lone Star State is now technically our legal domicile, we feel that New Mexico and Arizona may indeed be where we will discover our new home. These are exciting times for us, and as we leave Texas behind this week, we look towards the West with great optimism and excitement. Off into the sunset to the Wild West we go!

Babylon By Bus

This morning we left beautiful Lake Buchanan and Rainbow Hearth after a wonderful week that combined work, leisure, and the making of a new friend. It was simply a treat to work with Mariah and assist with the  running of Rainbow Hearth, and we leave a piece of our hearts behind at that special hilltop sanctuary where we are certain to return.

Diving back into Babylon, we made our way to Pflugerville, a semi-industrial and most un-picturesque suburb of Austin, which is the only place for miles in any direction where we could have a sorely needed wheel alignment on our rig. Noticing that the tires on our third axle were showing signs of wear and dry rot, we also elected to have those two tires replaced, bring to eight the number of new tires that the rig now enjoys. (For those interested in such things, we have four wheels on our drive axle, and two wheels on the front and rear axles.)

Walking around the working class neighborhood off of Interstate 35 behind the garage after dropping off the rig, we noted a community of modest homes---some more ramshackle than others---many of which sported chain-link fences behind which small feisty dogs yapped as we walked by with Tina. Interspersed among the homes were empty trash-strewn lots, several churches, car repair yards and other small businesses. Many of the homes, businesses---and even churches---were actually double-wide or single-wide trailers plunked on a small piece of scrubby land, some more cared for than others. It was an interesting mix, to say the least, and we have learned that many Americans of modest means call such trailers home, although some of this neighborhood were rather worse for wear.

Meandering down one nearby street, a Latino mechanic from the garage drove up beside us, telling us in broken English that the manager of the shop wanted to speak with us. After chatting with him in his native Spanish, we called the shop only to learn that a front ball joint would need to be replaced before the alignment could be done, a delay which would mean a return tomorrow for yet another round of escalating repairs. With a somewhat sinking feeling, we agreed for the ball joint to be ordered, and resigned ourselves that another day in Babylon would be needed.

These transitions from lovely spots of natural beauty back into the world of commerce and American ugliness---"Babylon"---can be difficult, and we often find ourselves wilting under the pressure and tumult of the world at large. Still, humor and levity do sometimes spring forth amidst the difficulties, such as a chuckle being had when we came upon these two vehicles along our walk, vehicles which Mary felt might be pictured right alongside our rig as jalopies worthy of our consideration:

The double-decker pictured above is actually a 1950s London diesel bus, and we imagined retrofitting it for our purposes. Just imagine, a two-story piece of "wheel estate"!

Mary also gave us a laugh by personally demonstrating that everything is bigger in Texas, even the cans of beer found on the side of the road.

So, after a dinner reunion with Mary's consistently kind and generous parents, we returned to our noisy campground off of I-35 for a night of sleep before returning to scenic Pflugerville for one more round of mechanical repairs. Luckily, Tina will have doggie daycare tomorrow with Mary's mom, allowing us to go to a movie while our rig is in the shop.

The return to Babylon is not always easy, and we go to sleep this evening with the dull roar of the interstate to lull us into dreamland, where we may very well hope to hear the gentle lapping of the water on the shores of Lake Buchanan. Meanwhile, the ceaseless traffic on I-35 flows on.......

A Mary and Keith Update From Texas

After almost a week in the shop, we went to pick up our rig at the mechanics today, and drove it down the road towards Mary's parent's place, happy to be reunited with a vehicle that is at once our home, our transportation, and a funnel for our hard-earned money.

Mary detected a very unhealthy sound emanating from the left back axle (which was allegedly just repaired) and we unhappily returned the rig to the shop for yet another round of diagnostics. The mechanics were in denial that anything was wrong, claiming to have driven it ten miles this afternoon, but we're sure that something isn't right, and we hope they can correct the problem and send us happily on our way tomorrow. 

On the audiovisual front, today I dropped our digital camera and it now seems to have given up the ghost, so we will need to buy a new one tomorrow, since traveling without a camera is absolutely unthinkable. "D'oh!"

Meanwhile, Mary's parents are being the kindest possible hosts, and we're relishing this special time with them. From excellent Tex Mex food to our games of Mexican Train, this time has been simply wonderful. We even get to drive a golf cart around the streets of Sun City!



Speaking of Mary's parents, just today Mary's mother Lydia singlehandedly arranged an impromptu Laughter Yoga session here in Sun City, and fourteen enthusiastic retirees participated. (One woman remarked about a phone call she received inviting her to attend the session: "When Lydia calls, you jump!") The Laughter Yoga was absolutely hilarious good fun, and we hope to be able to upload some videos for your viewing pleasure soon. 

This afternoon, Mary attended a relaxing yoga class at the Sun City fitness center, and Keith was able to swim some laps in a lovely indoor saltwater pool, successfully avoiding the plumes of toxic shampoo and soap in the locker room showers that can wreak havoc for those of us with Multiple Chemical Sensitivity (MCS).

We are in the process of contacting intentional communities in Texas, New Mexico and Arizona, and hope to be setting up some visits in the very near future. In the next few days, we will pay a visit to Rainbow Hearth Sanctuary and Retreat Center, and today Mary made a nice connection with the Windspirit Community, a certain stop on our Arizona itinerary. With our beloved son and daughter-in-law in Taos, we will no doubt be spending time in that neck of the woods once the ice, snow and frigid temperatures thaw. And when it comes to California, we certainly want to go, but due to the economic situation there, living in California is seeming less and less likely as time goes by. Still, there are plenty of people on the Left Coast who we would love to spend time with.

Our time here in Sun City has been very restful. I remarked to Mary just today that, even though the wanderlust is still there, it sometimes seems so hard to get started again once we've had a good long stop. A rest from life in the rig is good, but getting back in the saddle can be a challenge once we've had a chance to heal our ersatz saddle sores.

Anyway, folks, that's a quick and breezy update from Sun City as we turn in for the night and head to Dreamland. We send you our best, thank you for your comments and support, and will report on our progress over the next few days.

Buenas noches!

Austin Area Update

We'd like you all to know that we have been safely ensconced with Mary's parents in Georgetown, Texas (30 miles from Austin) for the last three days in Sun City, one of the largest retirement communities in the country. No, we're not settling down for a cushy retirement, just resting our weary bones.

Our rig is currently parked at a local mechanic's garage and is in the midst of receiving much needed mechanical repairs to the suspension, front end, axles and brakes. Although a (somewhat) unexpected expense, thousands of miles of wear and tear do indeed take their toll on such an old vehicle, and we're grateful to have found a reputable mechanic who will do what's necessary for our safety and well-being without unnecessarily fleecing us in the process.

Mary's parents are gracious and generous hosts, and we're happy to stretch out and relax in the expanse of a home that's bigger than our bread-box on wheels.

As for Tina, she is happy as a clam, rolling on the carpet, and even playing a little bit with Mary's parents' little dog (who is technically Tina's aunt, although younger than Tina by more than a decade!) Tina loves being in a house, and she seems pretty content the last few days, although somewhat anxious when we go out, of course.

Last night, we were treated to an evening with The Capitol Steps, a hilarious troupe of political satirists who skewer both the right and left with equal vigor, using songs and skits to poke good-natured fun at politicians and cultural icons of every stripe.

The temperatures here in the Austin area dipped into the 20s last night, and today a biting wind makes the temperature feel colder than the mid-40s, although we know that our friends in New England and Canada would gladly trade places with us in a heartbeat!

We're grateful for the kindness, generosity and comfort of family, and we are making plans to continue our journey once the rig is ready for the road once again.

Much love and appreciation to all of you. We will be posting some more photos and videos soon, so check back again when you can!

Propane Follow-Up: A Comedy of Errors, or "Not-So-Great Minds Think Alike"

Well, we made it through the night, our new portable heater keeping us sufficiently warm. Luckily, the temperature only dropped to 38 last night, avoiding the risk of a freeze. The wind also died down, so we slept fairly well over all, even little Miss Tina.

This morning, after making calls to RV mechanics and a propane service center (all of whom were exceedingly courteous and helpful, I may add), I had the bright idea of lighting a match and just checking to see if, perhaps, the propane valve had been locked in the "open" position rather than in the "closed" position. With Mary watching, I lit a match, et voila, the stove lit! Further testing my hypothesis, we went outside with a wrench and forced the propane valve in the opposite direction we had tried last night, et double voila, I was able to close it! Who'd have thunk it, Watson? We called three RV techs last night who all puzzled over our dilemma, and not one suggested that perhaps the man who filled our propane tank yesterday had erroneously turned the propane tank to the open position, tightening it so much that I couldn't "reverse" the turn even with a wrench. It turns out that we were assuming that the propane was stuck in the closed position, not having the presence of mind to consider that it was the opposite. Go figure.

So, our fatigue, brain fog, and the inability of five intelligent adults to think this problem through in the first place cost us: a) a trip to Wal-Mart, b) excessive fatigue and stress, and c) a bent ladder caused by aforementioned fatigue when we arrived to the campground a second time, thoroughly exhausted and spent and not thinking clearly, and d) Mary's MCS reaction to the chemicals released into the rig by the brand new heater (I'll spare you the details). We will be blogging more about life on the road with MCS (Multiple Chemical Sensitivity) in subsequent posts.

All things considered, we have made it through the vicissitudes of the last few days relatively unscathed, and we now have three days of sun and 50-degree weather forecast for our stay at Fort Pickens. With any luck, we'll post some videos and photos, and regale you with a few stories of a peaceful time here on this peninsula in northwest Florida. Although we're close to an Air Force base and there's the sound of a few jets and helicopters here and there, we have the Gulf of Mexico on one side and the Pensacola Bay on the other, and there is truly nothing about which we need to worry in this present sunny moment.

A Long Day and a Long Story

The day began with us pulling out of the Rainbow Plantation RV Park (so aptly described in Mary's last post), heading for an early morning appointment with a mechanic who came strongly recommended by several people at the park.

We arrived to the mechanic's garage in Robertsdale, Alabama at 8:30 and reviewed our "punch list" of items to be addressed. With Tina in tow, we tried to decide how to pass the next few hours. It was relatively cold (37 degrees F) but sunny, and the temperature was forecast to slowly rise all morning to the low 50's. We chose to spend the morning exploring the town.

Our morning was like something out of a movie by Jim Jarmusch. For those of you not familiar with Mr. Jarmusch, he makes quirky and interesting independent films which are often graced with atmospheric music by musicians such as Tom Waits. Jarmusch's early films, like Mystery Train, feature bleak urban and rural American landscapes filmed in grainy black and white, and the characters move within those landscapes like aliens dropped from a parallel universe.

For several hours, we wandered the somewhat bleak landscape of Robertsdale, walking with Tina in the cool morning air, seeing simple homes with countless barking, unhappy dogs tied on short chains in cluttered back yards. It was simply too cold to leave Tina sitting on her own outside a restaurant, and the "waiting room" at the garage was simply too foul with auto exhaust and other unidentifiable toxins to be comfortable for waiting. So, we wandered and wandered, eventually passing time in a very nice playground where Tina took a nap, I played on the swings, and Mary did yoga and meditated.

After three hours of passing the time in this way, the word came that it would be several more hours until our rig was ready. We had brought it in for routine maintenance, but a few pressing mechanical issues has presented themselves, and we chose to have them dealt with swiftly and decisively.

As the morning warmed, we made our way to a "down home" local restaurant offering a buffet-style lunch for $8. While Mary had no appetite, I was absolutely famished, and the friendly waitresses and owner guided us to the buffet where I piled a plate with mashed potatoes, navy beans, cole slaw, turnip greens, broccoli, and peach cobbler. It was good old-fashioned American fare chased down with strong decaf coffee, and they even let us bring two hamburgers and a dish of water to poor old Tina who was yelping wretchedly every few minutes from the front porch. Meanwhile, Mary's hunger awoke at the smell of food and I fed her surreptitiously from my plate, returning to the buffet for more beans, greens and potatoes with which to please her.

During the course of our meal, Mary struck up a cordial conversation with two elderly brothers at the next table, and after a fairly lengthy conversation about our lives and travels, the more talkative of the two said called us over to their table.

"Y'know, I'd like to offer you to stay for free for two days on my property on the Gulf of Mexico near Biloxi, Mississippi." He leaned forward, looked me in the eye, and said, "Just two days, mind you." I readily agreed.

"You see," he continued, "my house on the Gulf was destroyed in the big hurricane, but there's still electricity, and I'd like you to feel welcome to park there. In fact, let me write down the directions and my phone number. And if anyone asks you why you're there, just tell them Bill sent you."

I thanked him profusely since Mary had excused herself to tend to Tina, and he wrote down the directions in Mary's journal. He added that "the best barbecue in the United States" was right down the street and we just had to eat there while visiting his property.

Finally, when lunch was done, we received the call that our rig was indeed ready, five hours after we had started. The friendly mechanic presented us with a substantial bill, some good advice, some peace of mind, and news that other work would be needed down the road, hopefully sooner than later.

We returned to the RV park to discuss some other needed repairs with a local RV technician, made an appointment with him for Friday, and headed down the road to the Alabama Gulf Coast in search of a place to stay for the sunny week which was forecast to continue until Friday. Stopping to get diesel and propane, we arrived at a recommended campground on the coast just before sundown, but the park was very unimpressive and depressing, with views of an over-developed coastline filled with big hotel resorts and coastal sprawl.

Knowing that the beautiful and more remote Fort Pickens National Park was only 40 miles further east over the Florida border, we chose to drive into the darkening evening with Mary at the helm. A blood-red sunset washed through the sky behind us, and I spent a few minutes (illegally) laying on the bed and watching the sky through the rear window.

We arrived to Fort Pickens by 8:30pm, tired but happy, having driven through the touristy sprawl surrounding Pensacola. Our elation at finally arriving turned to upset when I discovered that our propane tank's knob was not turning, being for all intents and purposes frozen, making us immediately realize that we were facing the reality of a night without heat. With temperatures still forecast to be below freezing overnight, being without heat is non-negotiable for us, the danger of frozen and burst pipes a very clear reality. With our propane furnace as our only heat source, this was a dire situation in need of a timely remedy.

Anxiously calling our RV technician contacts (and even the kind National Park rangers who responded with a visit!), we were not able to glean any advice that would remedy the situation, so we were faced with the lamentable choice of driving 16 miles round-trip to the nearest Wal-Mart (a store which I have stalwartly boycotted for my entire life) to purchase a portable electric heater, taking into consideration that our campsite was equipped with reliable electrical power that would give us the energy to run it.

Arriving to the local Wal-Mart, I was informed (as I had expected) that there had been a rush on portable heaters for the last two weeks, and every store in Florida was sold out, including this one. Bare shelves confirmed the story, and the very kind salesperson listened to my tale of woe very closely.

"Well, sir" he said thoughtfully, "let me run to the back. Someone returned a heater the other day, and maybe it's still back there. I don't know if it works or not, but let's find out."

He rushed to the stock room and returned with a smile several minutes later. We plugged in the heater, which was working perfectly, and I gratefully paid for it with a gift card that the gracious Latino elders at Mary's old workplace had given to her several years ago for Mother's Day. We returned to Fort Pickens by 11pm, exhausted and spent.

Unfortunately, to top off our day, I backed the rig into a low-lying branch and bent the ladder at the top of the rig, but no permanent damage seems to have been done and it can assuredly be easily fixed. Oy vey.

When I returned to the rig after plugging in our electric cord and checking on the ladder, Mary was on the phone and in tears, having received the news that her close friend's sister had died of a sudden heart attack just hours ago, leaving two young children and a husband who had all witnessed her death despite the husband's efforts to revive her. 

This life on the road is filled with unexpected twists and turns. As I write, the portable electric heater is warming our space adequately, and our pipes are no longer in danger of freezing. In terms of cooking, we have a small one-burner camp stove that we can use outdoors tomorrow, so we are assured of a warm cup of tea and a hot meal. In terms of the stuck propane knob, we hope that this situation will be easily remedied, and we'll make calls tomorrow in search of someone who can offer us a solution. The propane powers our furnace, hot water heater and kitchen stove, so it is essential to our comfort and self-sufficiency.

For now, we go to bed grateful and tired, and the news of our dear friend's sister's death certainly puts our problems into proper perspective. We will be ready to face the day tomorrow, take in some sun, and determine the fate of our propane tank and our future ability to heat our home, take hot showers and cook. Still, we have a cozy home in which to slumber, we're safe and sound, and this vexing problem too shall pass.

Not having heat or hot water is one thing, but losing a loved (an experience with which we are all too familiar) is an incomparable challenge that truly tests an individual's ability to cope and carry on in the face of tragedy and grief. We give thanks for our relative health and well-being, and we pray for our friend and her family as they cope with a sudden and tragic loss.

---Keith

Good to Go

So, after another day of the mobile mechanic working his magic, we are ready to be back on the road tomorrow. This time here in Atlanta with family has been priceless, and although these needed repairs have taxed our wallet, we are blessed that the radiator leak was detected here in the safety of my sister's driveway rather than on the cold, open highway.

I have to admit that my understanding of engines, machines and the physical world is negligible, and I indeed experience some level of helplessness and despair when faced with things gone awry. Give me a sentence to edit, a blood pressure to check, a patient to assess, and I can take care of things in a jiffy. But when it comes to a handyman's world, I'm Homer Simpson on a bad day.

In his infinite wisdom, my compassionate (and skilled) brother-in-law has tried to instill in me a new mantra: "Fixing is fun, fixing is fun, fixing is fun". Whether or not this mantra becomes part and parcel of my being remains to be seen, but for now I will consider what it can mean for me, and try to face future mechanical problems with aplomb and calm. I have no aspirations to become a master mechanic, but if I can raise my mechanical self-esteem a few notches, it might help as we continue our journey. 

Anyway, with this chapter coming to a close, we give thanks for family, for kind mechanics who do their work with a friendly demeanor, and for the way in which things continue to come together, even when things seem dark and foreboding.

After a final night with family here in Atlanta, we'll set out again into the wilderness of America, and open our arms to what presents itself at the next bend in the road. Maary adds, in the meanwhile y'all come back now, ya heah?

---Keith

Best Laid Plans.....

Well, friends and readers, after a wonderful five nights of holiday cheer with family here in the Atlanta area, we were packed up and ready to depart on the next leg of our journey just after today's lunch. But as we warmed up the rig and began our preparations for launch, a tell-tale leak of antifreeze from under the hood (and the growing puddle of shimmering green fluid on the driveway macadam) made it clear that our imminent departure would indeed be thwarted.

Just yesterday, a mobile RV mechanic came to the house, (supposedly) fixed the antifreeze leak, sealed a few troublesome areas in need of silicone sealant, and repaired several other irksome issues in need of attention. In addition, my brilliant brother-in-law also led the charge in repairing some areas on the wheel wells that were simply screaming for attention.

 

Today, when all was indeed in readiness, we were summarily reminded that the best laid plans of even the most conscientious road warriors can be turned on their head, and we simply need to roll with the punches and deal with what's on our plate.

On Monday morning, we'll see if our itinerant RV mechanic can remedy our situation in short order. If so, we'll head out on Interstate 75 South and visit Fort Benning, a Georgian army base where Mary spent a portion of her formative years. If a more complicated fix is needed, we'll cross that bridge with grace. Then, we'll visit Fort Benning before we head to Florida, where we'll see a few good friends, celebrate the New Year, and visit some intriguing intentional communities. 

Tune in tomorrow for the next chapter of Mary and Keith's Excellent Adventure.

Less Than Four Weeks and Counting!

It hardly seems possible, but in less than four weeks, we will be officially on the road! Just yesterday, Mary and I realized that we each have only seven actual work days left on our calendars, and by the time we say goodbye to our jobs, it will already be October 15th!

Yesterday, on Friday afternoon, we had four new tires put on the drive axle of the rig. Being 12,000 pounds, our vehicle has three axles and eight wheels and tires. Up front, we have two newish tires, and on the rear axle (which does nothing more than bear weight and add additional stability), all is well. So, in the interest of safety and road-worthiness, we now have four excellent all-season radials on our second axle, lending us even more stability, less chance of problems on the road, and a real sense of security underfoot.

Even more exciting, today we purchased a National Geographic Road Atlas of the United States, a great resource with excellent maps, profiles of national and state parks, and many features that any map-lover can appreciate.


So, when I begin to get excited by maps, I know that a trip is imminent. Looking at these maps of the US, I begin to imagine all of the places we'll see, the people that we'll meet and the experiences that we'll have, and I can begin to taste the freedom that is just around the corner.

---Keith

Soon Come....

Well, the days are growing colder---it'll be in the 30's tonight, apparently---and we are inching our way towards our projected departure date of October 28th.

Today, our mobile RV technician made a "house-call" (so to speak) and installed a new water pump. The pump, which is in a cabinet just under the bed, pumps water on demand from our fresh-water tank to whatever faucet we are using. If we're hooked up to "city water" (receiving water right from a hose attached to a house or a campground hookup), the pump is not needed. But if we are in a situation wherein we are utilizing our own on-board fresh water supply (like where we're parked right now), then this pump is essential. We plan to stay in campgrounds as little as possible, so having an efficient water pump that won't break down is crucial.

After the pump was installed, he and I climbed up on the roof and identified several areas that needed a little reinforcement. With the help of special caulking, some questionable areas were treated, and now our roof is tightly sealed against the elements. A big sigh of relief.

Meanwhile, tomorrow we will have two tires replaced, the tires rotated, and we'll also take a pause to dump out the ol' waste tanks at the local sewage treatment plant. Another sigh or relief.

With only 2 weeks of work left for both of us, time is of the essence and we are taking advantage of every day to get something done towards our pending departure.

"Soon come", as they say in Jamaica. Soon come.

---Keith

Cleanin' Da Roof

It was a bright sunny day today, so I left work, drove home, changed into my work clothes, and decided to tackle what I have been avoiding for weeks, now----cleaning and treating the rubber roof of our rig. Yikes.

RV'ers in the know issue dire warnings about rubber roofs, admonishing would-be RV'ers to avoid rigs with rubber roofs due to the high maintenance needs therein. So what did we do? We bought a rig with a rubber roof! And so it is......


Several weeks ago, the mobile RV tech who installed our new fridge and fixed some other things in the rig urged us to clean and treat the roof as soon possible. Rubber roofs can dry, crack and spring leaks when exposed to the sun and not treated with UV protective coatings, thus they must be vigilantly maintained. Also, seams and other areas where water can enter must be watched closely and patched before leaks can develop.

So, there I was, climbing up and down that damn ladder, scrubbing the roof in small sections with a baking soda solution, removing the blackened areas, exposing the white coating of the roof that is its natural state.

I did as good a job as I could, scrambling up and down, trying not to slip and fall, entertaining images in my mind of my wracked body laying on the ground at the base of the ladder, a shattered femur and broken ankle a testament to my devotion and clumsiness as a handyman. After an hour of struggle, toil, sweat and no tears, I beheld a (relatively) clean, white roof, and then had to spend another half-hour washing and wiping down the outside of the entire rig, which had become covered with a gritty and grimy baking soda and dirt cocktail!

Completing my task, I rewarded myself with some time relaxing in the sun, waiting for the roof to dry (and folding some laundry).

After an hour of drying time in the blazing late summer sun, I grabbed my brand new sponge mop and a bottle of "rubber roof UV protectant spray", and slowly but surely made my way from the far end of the rig back to the ladder, careful not to trap myself in a corner from where I could not escape back to the solid earth.

The roof is not necessarily all solid---there are soft spots, seams, and some areas where it feels quite scary to put one's weight. Thus, I painstakingly traipsed my way around the air conditioner, solar panels, vents and other objects up there, and did the best job I could.

By the end, I was covered with splatters of baking soda and water and grime, but I came away satisfied that I had least done a passable job cleaning and treating the membrane that actually protects us from the elements above.

And my concluding thoughts about the roof treatment and cleaning process that needs to be done every 3 to 6 months? Next time I'll hire out.

---Keith